If I say tea, I wonder if you envision a steaming mug and maybe a crumpet or two. Or maybe you see a tall, straight sided glass filled with ice and a caramel colored liquid beads of condensation rolling down the side. What I’m sure isn’t the first image to come to mind is tea as an ingredient in cooking.
Tea, more than just a drink
But using it as an ingredient is as old as the history of tea itself. In Chinese cuisine, oolong leaves have been used to flavor steamed fish. The duck used to fill gua bao in Sichuan cuisine is smoked over tea leaves. And the most elegant looking hard cooked eggs are achieved by steeping them in tea.
As I was reading Kim’s article from last week, Mighty Matcha, I found myself nodding in agreement with her statement, “I’ve been largely disappointed by green teas in the past with flavors that ran the gamut from bitter to weedy to fishy.” And certainly if a lower grade of matcha is served you may experience all of the flavors. Yuck!
But as Kim stated, it can be “bright and herbal with a flavor that toe(s) a fine lin between sweet and savoury.” As I read that I thought, I want to create a recipe that displays this side of a matcha. And what better canvas to introduce these flavors than ice cream.
When we lived in Seattle, we often lunched at an Asian restaurant that served a diminutive scoop of matcha ice cream in a chirirenge, also called a Chinese soup spoon, at the end of the meal.
Quick aside, chirirenge means a petal of a lotus flower that has fallen off. I don’t know about you, but the idea of consuming a tiny scoop of ice cream from a lotus petal just sounds exquisite. Anyway, I always loved getting that sweet last bite. It conveyed both a sweetness and earthiness at the same time. A marriage of opposites. It really was a wonderful way to end a lovely lunch enjoyed with my meal-time partners.
Cooking, or in the case, freezing with tea
So on to the ice cream. I’m a fan of a pretty solid ice cream. None of this whipped, fluffy stuff for me. I want it to melt slowly making every bite a flavorful experience. And this recipe delivers that style. It relies on a custard base, so it does take a bit of time but it’s worth the wait.
You’ll start by making a slurry with matcha powder and water. A note on the matcha slurry. Make sure that you stir, stir, stir, ensuring that the slurry is as smooth as is humanly possible and doesn’t have any big lumps in it. You will have the opportunity to strain any small lumps out, but you’ll be glad that you spent the time in this step.
You will note that I include corn syrup. Don’t get all corn-syrup-is-the-spawn-of-the-devil on me. It really does have a purpose in the recipe. It helps to reduce ice crystals which makes it feel much creamier as it slowly melts. You can skip it if you must. But don’t, please. 😉
I like to add any stir-ins once the ice cream has been processed in the ice cream maker. I feel like the distribution through the ice cream is better.
If this is your first foray into using tea as an ingredient, I hope it is a delicious adventure.
What is your favorite way to enjoy tea?
Matcha Ice Cream with Candied Ginger
Makes: (1 quart) • Prep: (15 minutes) • Cook Time: (15 minutes) • Cool Time: (4 hours - overnight)
Earthy, slightly sweet with a sweet-spicy bite from the ginger, this matcha ice cream recipe is sure convert the most fierce matcha skeptic. Don’t be afraid, the matcha comes through with an elegant subtlety.
Ingredients
2 tablespoons matcha powder
3 tablespoons hot water
2 cups heavy cream
1 cup whole milk
3/4 sugar, divided
2 tablespoons corn syrup
1/4 teaspoon salt
3 egg yolks
1/4 cup chopped candied ginger
Instructions
Combine the matcha powder and water in a small bowl stirring until a lump-free slurry is created. Set aside.
Combine the cream, milk, 1/2 cup of the sugar, and corn syrup in a medium sauce pan. Over medium-high heat bring the milk mixture to a simmer. DO NOT allow to boil.
While the milk mixture is heating, whisk the egg yolks and remaining sugar in a small bowl until light and the sugar has dissolved.
Temper the egg mixture by slowly adding 1/2 cup of the simmered milk mixture. Stirring constantly.
Add the egg mixture into the milk mixture and return the sauce pan to the heat. Simmer for 3 - 5 minutes, until the mixture coats the back of a spoon. DO NOT allow to boil.
Remove the milk mixture from the heat. Whisk in the matcha paste until fully incorporated. Strain into a bowl and refrigerator for 4 hours or overnight.
Remove the custard from the refrigerator and pour into the ice cream maker.
Following the maker’s instructions, churn until the ice cream is thick. Stir in the ginger and transfer to an airtight freezer container and freeze until firm.
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I've not been a fan of green tea for the same yucky flavor reasons.